Beer & Pizza & Traitors & Scoundrels

     Watching the Argyle hills get painted sunset gold is one of life's little pleasures. It gets even better when you have a mug of Scotlander beer in hand and the aroma  of Bab a Dew's wood fired pizza in the air. Such was my luck a few days ago when our family took the short drive up corkscrewing Co. 47 to hear a talk about Benedict Arnold at the Farm to Tap brewery.

 

     It was a congenial, standing room only crowd that enjoyed Garrett Cloer's (Head of Interpretation at Saratoga Battlefield) talk on traitor Benedict Arnold, scoundrel James Wilkinson and a recently discovered letter that sheds light on events at Saratoga during the Revolution. The evening was sponsored by the Washington County Historical Society, part of a series celebrating the 250th anniversary of the country's founding. Maybe, if we served pizza and beer in high school history class, we'd produce more citizens who know that this country was founded by those who did not want to live under a kings iron fisted rule and fewer who want a 21st century maniacal tyrant calling the shots. Anyone see a problem with that plan?

     Sarah and Matt Puhl have created a welcoming place to enjoy a brew (Hint: try a Boreas IPA), to chew the fat with friends and neighbors and to play a few games (calling all pinball wizards). Their site also serves as a Harvest Host and if you need to work up a thirst, the surrounding backroads of Argyle are great for biking. Let's make up for all those lost years of the town being dry. See you there.

Evening in the Hop yard

  

Take a Hike

     You know the drill.

     It starts with "It's a nice day. Let's go for a hike."

     "Great. Where do you want to go?"

     And then things start to go downhill with a lot of "I don't knows",  "Didn't we just do that. Like twenty years ago" and "Are you kidding? That place has bears, rabid chipmunks and tourists from New Jersey!" 

     Ugh. It's enough to drive one to TV sports. Prompted me to put together a list of places to hike in Washington County. Comprehensive and recommended? Not necessarily. Just some places I've heard about, visited or plan to. If they're too long, short, steep, muddy, buggy or just plain boring don't shot the messenger. It's gotta beat sitting at home staring at a screen. So, stare at this screen for a few more minutes and then get out there. See you on the trail.

     For no particular reason we'll start in the south and work our way up county with just enough information to whet your appetite and get you to the trailhead. This doesn't exactly start with a bang because there isn't a lot of public land in the lower end of the county. But not to worry, we'll just poach a few places from northern Rensselaer County to get going. And do consider simply walking or biking some of the backroads in Easton and Cambridge. They can be almost as quiet and relaxing as a trail hike.

     * Lock 4 Canal Park is located across the river from Stillwater on Canal Road off Rt. 67 in the Town of Schaghticoke. Short level nature trails where the Hoosic River joins the Hudson. Picnic area, shale bluffs, interesting botany and the canal lock in season (May 1 to Nov. 15). If Canal Road is gated you should still be able to walk in.

At Lock 4 Canal Park

     * Featherweald Preserve is actually in Washington County but it is owned by the Rensselaer Land Trust which, after a merger,  is now called Hudson Taconic Lands. Confused yet? The 44 acre property is located on Co. 59 not far from the Buskirk Covered Bridge at the southern edge of the Town of Cambridge. It features several walking trails, some of which are closed for Great Blue Heron nesting season. Noted for good birding and diverse ecology.

 

     * Bennington Battlefield is further east on Rt. 67 past Walloomsac. Drive up a steep hill to a visitors center, several monuments and a 2.7 mile trail system. Most of the 276 acre site is in Rensselaer County but on one of the trails you'll cross into southern Washington County. Quiet now but like a storm out of Hell on the day of the battle. Open from May 1 to Veterans Day but if the gates are closed you can always park at the bottom and walk up.

   

     Further east near the Vermont border we hit the hiking jackpot with several state forests and a number of other attractive options:

     * Mt. Tom State Forest is the big kahuna in this neck of the woods with over 1700 acres of public land and nearly seven miles of roads and trails. Access to this White Creek parcel in the southeastern corner of Washington County is off Lincoln Hill Road via Shaker Hollow or Notch Lane with an additional parking spot on Chestnut Hill Road. A good place to start is with a hike thru The Notch on a rough 4x4 road. Then search for the old lime kiln to the east of The Notch. With experience this becomes a great place for those comfortable with trailless rambling. Also check out the nearby conifer seed orchard on Lincoln Hill Road for additional terrain. 

 

This abandoned lime kiln hides deep in The Mt. Tom State Forest

     * Chestnut Woods State Forest hugs the New York/Vermont border with two access points on Chestnut Hill Road. It features 800 acres of open woods and old logging roads but no marked trails. If you are comfortable with bushwhacking a good loop would be from the lower parking lot up to the top of the ridge, then following the high ground north over several small summits and eventually descending a rough lane back to Chestnut Hill Road with a short road walk back to your car. Alternately, it is fun to locate the monuments that mark the border between the two states but this involves going over the top of the ridge and part way down the other side. 

 

A Vt/NY border monument on the edge of Chestnut Woods

From the P at bottom hike up to top of ridge generally following the height of land

north to a summit before dropping down to the fish hook lane and Chestnut Hill Road

     * North Bennington is not far from the southeastern corner of Washington County and offers several nice trails including the Mile-Around Woods and the Robert Frost trail. Also in Vermont is access to the Green Mountain National Forest with a trail that leads from Shaftsbury Hollow Road to the summit of Grass Mountain.

     New Skete has a great trail system created by the Brothers with options ranging from mostly level woods walks to a relatively strenuous climb over Two Tops. Access via New Skete Lane off of Chestnut Hill Road, everyday except Monday.

 

The view from Two Tops on New Skete's trails

     Goose Egg and Battenkill State Forests are adjacent to each other and often treated as one unit but they have separate access points. While many are familiar with the parking area on Rt. 313 near Eagleville where the Folded Rock Trail begins, fewer people use another access point at the end of Bates Road. Goose Egg doesn't have a trail but once you're up on top of the ridge it's an easy bushwhack out to a scenic view of the White Creek Valley. Also note that if you drive to the end of Black Hollow Road into Vermont there is another Green Mountain National Forest access point with trails leading to Big Spruce and Grass Mountains.

Goose Egg Ridge

Grass Mountain from Goose Egg

     Cambridge Community Forest has a number of trails across White Creek at the end of Rockside Drive. Also consider some 'urban hiking' with a stroll around the Village. It's a pleasant way to spend a summer evening. On the north end of town is Woodland Cemetery with diverse trees, fascinating monuments and a stiff slope that will get your heart pumping  (good to have a pumping heart if you're in a cemetery).  

Trail work at the Community forest

(from their Facebook page)

The Philip Embury monument at Woodlawn

     Eldridge Swamp State Forest located along Rt. 313 outside of Cambridge doesn't have any trails and can be impassably wet in places but it can also be a great place for botany and wildlife viewing. Several small parking spots along the road.

     Lake Lauderdale County Park is located on Rt. 22 north of Cambridge. There are a number of trails on the hillside above the picnic/beach area. Towering pines line the entrance road. The park doesn't fully open until later in May but you can leave your car out by the road and walk in anytime. 

     Christ the King spiritual retreat has extensive hiking trails on its campus in the Town of Easton, just outside of Greenwich. Check out my recent blog post for more info and remember, the Village of Greenwich also offers tree shaded streets and quiet cemeteries for short strolls. 

At Christ the King

     Dionondahowa Falls is a favorite short hike off Windy Hill Road near the fairgrounds and Ice Cream Man. Look for a pull-off for several cars and a trail leading downhill to viewing platforms and the areas most spectacular waterfall. 

     Willard Mountain is hard to beat for winter skiing and sliding fun but I've enjoyed the summit view after hiking up in the summer. It is private and I'm not sure what their current policy is so you should check before tackling the bunny slope.

Fall view from Willard

(web image)

     There's my sampling of hiking destinations in the southern part of Washington County. The next time ambition strikes we'll move a little north and hit the trail again.

Two for One

      My ongoing quest to visit all the libraries in Washington County struck gold the other day. In Granville I found not only a great little library but, like the icing on the cake, a museum above it. Two for the price of one and both for free!

     Both institutions are the legacy of Franklin Pember, a local boy who made good. He was born in 1841, eventually becoming a wealthy entrepreneur but always remaining a naturalist at heart. From his boyhood years around Granville to subsequent trips to more exotic locations, he built an impressive collection of natural objects that included everything from butterflies to bird's eggs to stuffed bears.

     In 1909 Franklin and his wife Ellen had the limestone and marble structure built that houses today's library and museum. Cost was $31,333 with the Pembers gifting the building and collections to the Village. Franklin spent several afternoons each week at the museum guiding area children thru the wonders housed there. After the Pember's passing (within a few weeks of each other in early 1924) the museum came on hard times and closed for over 40 years. Finally, a Friends group was able to revitalize the museum which reopened on January 21, 1973 becoming once again a treasured resource and attraction for the community.

A recent photo of the Pember with the elevator annex on the right

     The story of the Pembers, their collections and the museum and library is told in a concise little book researched by Joan Patton and written by Delight Gartlein,  with life histories of a number of the museum's specimens provided by Alan Pistorius and photographed by Alan Cederstrom. I have fond memories of Delight, who was the museum's director back in the '80's. We worked together to create a Pember sponsored series of outings to interesting natural areas in Washington County and adjacent Vermont. Good times. 

One Pember outing I remember was a paddle on South Bay to the Diameter

I didn't have a camera back then so this pic is from a subsequent trip  

     In 1979 the museum acquired 125 acres of land south of Granville in the Town of Hebron. A branch of Black Creek runs thru the property and there are trails making it ideal for nature study. With easy access from Rt. 22 and the old Porter Schoolhouse as a nature center this has been a great addition to the museum. I believe they are currently looking for a naturalist to host programs there so if you know of anyone qualified give them a heads up.

     Visiting the library and museum is a rich sensory experience. From the imposing solidity of the stone structure to the beautiful woodwork of the interior stairs, moldings and display cases it takes you back to a time of proud craftsmanship. Settle in with a good book beside the marbleized slate fireplace you're transported to a more relaxed era. Even the recently added elevator addition tastefully blends in with the original building. 

     There is the usual collection of books and magazines with an impressively large selection of DVD's. Since it is part of the Southern Adirondack Library System you can access a great deal more by request. There are a number of interesting books specific to the slate valley region of New York/Vermont that circulate and several cases of older books that could be of interest to researchers. Upstairs (or up elevator) the museum features case after case of the Pember's collections in a space that feels timeless. Both library and museum are places to shift gears, slow down and revel in another world. 

* Here's a link to their website. Much of the museum's collection can be viewed online which is valuable but no substitute for the experience of seeing it in person. Also note that you can purchase the afore mentioned The Pember book at the museum. 

       

A Slice of Heaven

 

     They call Washington County 'Hill Country'. True enough but where there are hills there are valleys and it's in the valleys where most everything happens. Take the valley just south of the Village of Greenwich, on the other side of the Battenkill River. It's home to a place called Christ the King, a sprawling complex of buildings spread out amongst fields, forests, ponds and streams. In nature, history and mission, it's a fascinating place.

     Briefly, Christ the King is a ministry of the Episcopal Diocese of Albany, New York. The Diocese bought 612 acres of the former Leatherstocking farm on December 12, 2002. Today there are more than twenty buildings here spread out across the landscape. Facilities include diverse lodging and dining options, the Beaver Cross camp for youth, library and meeting rooms, the Holy Redeemer Anglican Church and the residences of the Community of St. Marys Sisters. There are also opportunities for outdoor recreation including a high ropes course, disc golf, a lake and beach and an extensive trail system.

     The Diocese seems very open to visitors using the trails although I believe they do ask you to sign in. I hiked some of the trails for the first time a few days ago and want to share my experience here. To get oriented, Christ the King is located at the northern end of the Town of Easton with the main entrance on Burton Road and further access off Safford Hill Road, which is actually in the Village of Greenwich. The western front of the Taconic Mountain Range rises above the property in the form of Schuyler Mountain. A small stream drains off the mountain and thru a series of ponds and wetlands before emptying into the Battenkill River. Fly Creek, another Battenkill tributary courses thru the valley just to the east.

Looking southwest at the Taconic front range hills from Derby Road

Willard, Schuyler and friends

Christ the King lies at the base of Schuyler, top right

A Google Earth screen shot with Christ the King centered

NYS Rt. 40 and Schuyler Mountain to the left

CO 74 and the Fly Creek valley to the right

Fly Creek on its way to the Battenkill

     The northwestern part of the property is called The Nature Preserve and the trails here are on either side of the unnamed stream which has been extensively damned by man and beast (aka beavers). The trails are color coded but it may take a visit or two to get your bearings. Don't worry if you feel a little confused. This isn't a vast wilderness and a short walk will bring you out to someplace familiar eventually. You will be in an open hardwood forest most of the time with occasional clusters of white pine. Notice the stone walls running thru the woods which tell you that all of this land was cleared at one time, probably back in the sheep boom years.

I couldn't find a good map of the trail system but maybe these two will help a little.

The bottom one shows the route of the Wandering Witch Trail Run,

a race that used to be held here. The red arrows trace a 5K loop (3.1 miles).

             

     The most colorful chapter in the property's history is provided by Robert Steele and his $1.5 million dollar bull. Steele established Leatherstocking Farm in the early '80's for the purported purpose of developing Angus breeding stock. Turns out, his prize bull, High Voltage, didn't pack quite the charge Steele claimed for him. But the owner made up in cojones for what the bull lacked. After bilking investors Steele became embroiled in an effort to return Philippine strong man Ferdinand Marcos to power. The plan fell apart when several of Steele's associates were arrested trying to buy weapons from an undercover government agent. Steele went to prison for his involvement in the affair but that wasn't the end of his troubles. His notoriety drew the attention of the IRS and after his release they came after him. Apparently, with money stashed in overseas banks, he went on the lame. Maybe he escaped in one of the helicopters he so loved. I don't know for sure because Robert Steele's trail has grown cold and I couldn't find out what became of him. 

That's a lot of bull

(web image)

     One legacy of the Steele era is in the dirt road that cuts thru the northern part of the Christ the King property. Coming up from Co 74 on the east side it is named Safford Hill Road, while its western stretch is known as Louse Hill Road. In between is a short section that might be called No Man's Land. If my memory serves me, it was Steele who blocked off what had previously been a thru town road. Normally this would not have been allowed but the perpetrator had such a dangerous reputation (he drove around town in a stretch limo with a pistol on his hip accompanied by shady looking tough guys) that the situation went on for years. 

     Now days both sides of the road are owned by the Diocese which, decidedly, does not have a dangerous reputation. But a section still seems to be 'sort of' closed. There are orange cones, easy enough to drive around, at either end of the closed section. In any case, it's a good road to avoid during mud season. Or to at least avoid driving on. Better to enjoy the views and nature here by walking, running or on a mountain bike. Christ the King's lake and beach are beside the road and offer a pleasant spot to stop and relax. Also note that the Diocese's property extends down to the shore of the Battenkill but appears to be closed to the public, perhaps over safety and liability concerns.

The lake and beach

     Whether your goals are spiritual or recreational, I hope you get to visit Christ the King soon. It's truly 'a slice of heaven'.

* Here's a link to their website with all you need to know.  

 

Leaving Christ the King

This small falls is the outlet of their lake

Next stop: the Battenkill