A Slice of Heaven

 

     They call Washington County 'Hill Country'. True enough but where there are hills there are valleys and it's in the valleys where most everything happens. Take the valley just south of the Village of Greenwich, on the other side of the Battenkill River. It's home to a place called Christ the King, a sprawling complex of buildings spread out amongst fields, forests, ponds and streams. In nature, history and mission, it's a fascinating place.

     Briefly, Christ the King is a ministry of the Episcopal Diocese of Albany, New York. The Diocese bought 612 acres of the former Leatherstocking farm on December 12, 2002. Today there are more than twenty buildings here spread out across the landscape. Facilities include diverse lodging and dining options, the Beaver Cross camp for youth, library and meeting rooms, the Holy Redeemer Anglican Church and the residences of the Community of St. Marys Sisters. There are also opportunities for outdoor recreation including a high ropes course, disc golf, a lake and beach and an extensive trail system.

     The Diocese seems very open to visitors using the trails although I believe they do ask you to sign in. I hiked some of the trails for the first time a few days ago and want to share my experience here. To get oriented, Christ the King is located at the northern end of the Town of Easton with the main entrance on Burton Road and further access off Safford Hill Road, which is actually in the Village of Greenwich. The western front of the Taconic Mountain Range rises above the property in the form of Schuyler Mountain. A small stream drains off the mountain and thru a series of ponds and wetlands before emptying into the Battenkill River. Fly Creek, another Battenkill tributary courses thru the valley just to the east.

Looking southwest at the Taconic front range hills from Derby Road

Willard, Schuyler and friends

Christ the King lies at the base of Schuyler, top right

A Google Earth screen shot with Christ the King centered

NYS Rt. 40 and Schuyler Mountain to the left

CO 74 and the Fly Creek valley to the right

Fly Creek on its way to the Battenkill

     The northwestern part of the property is called The Nature Preserve and the trails here are on either side of the unnamed stream which has been extensively damned by man and beast (aka beavers). The trails are color coded but it may take a visit or two to get your bearings. Don't worry if you feel a little confused. This isn't a vast wilderness and a short walk will bring you out to someplace familiar eventually. You will be in an open hardwood forest most of the time with occasional clusters of white pine. Notice the stone walls running thru the woods which tell you that all of this land was cleared at one time, probably back in the sheep boom years.

I couldn't find a good map of the trail system but maybe these two will help a little.

The bottom one shows the route of the Wandering Witch Trail Run,

a race that used to be held here. The red arrows trace a 5K loop (3.1 miles).

             

     The most colorful chapter in the property's history is provided by Robert Steele and his $1.5 million dollar bull. Steele established Leatherstocking Farm in the early '80's for the purported purpose of developing Angus breeding stock. Turns out, his prize bull, High Voltage, didn't pack quite the charge Steele claimed for him. But the owner made up in cojones for what the bull lacked. After bilking investors Steele became embroiled in an effort to return Philippine strong man Ferdinand Marcos to power. The plan fell apart when several of Steele's associates were arrested trying to buy weapons from an undercover government agent. Steele went to prison for his involvement in the affair but that wasn't the end of his troubles. His notoriety drew the attention of the IRS and after his release they came after him. Apparently, with money stashed in overseas banks, he went on the lame. Maybe he escaped in one of the helicopters he so loved. I don't know for sure because Robert Steele's trail has grown cold and I couldn't find out what became of him. 

That's a lot of bull

(web image)

     One legacy of the Steele era is in the dirt road that cuts thru the northern part of the Christ the King property. Coming up from Co 74 on the east side it is named Safford Hill Road, while its western stretch is known as Louse Hill Road. In between is a short section that might be called No Man's Land. If my memory serves me, it was Steele who blocked off what had previously been a thru town road. Normally this would not have been allowed but the perpetrator had such a dangerous reputation (he drove around town in a stretch limo with a pistol on his hip accompanied by shady looking tough guys) that the situation went on for years. 

     Now days both sides of the road are owned by the Diocese which, decidedly, does not have a dangerous reputation. But a section still seems to be 'sort of' closed. There are orange cones, easy enough to drive around, at either end of the closed section. In any case, it's a good road to avoid during mud season. Or to at least avoid driving on. Better to enjoy the views and nature here by walking, running or on a mountain bike. Christ the King's lake and beach are beside the road and offer a pleasant spot to stop and relax. Also note that the Diocese's property extends down to the shore of the Battenkill but appears to be closed to the public, perhaps over safety and liability concerns.

The lake and beach

     Whether your goals are spiritual or recreational, I hope you get to visit Christ the King soon. It's truly 'a slice of heaven'.

* Here's a link to their website with all you need to know.  

 

Leaving Christ the King

This small falls is the outlet of their lake

Next stop: the Battenkill

'Driven' to Argyle

     "Whoa!"

     "That rut was deep enough to swallow a dump truck!"

     I was driving a dump truck down Saunders Road in Argyle and having second thoughts about it. A lovely dirt road for most of the year, it turns into a nightmare during mud season. Obviously, mud season had arrived.

     I have Drive and myself to blame. This is going to take some explanation so let's get to it. Drive is a 2011 movie starring Ryan Gosling. For some inexplicable reason I'ld gotten the notion that I should watch it. Checking DVD availability, I found that the Argyle Library had a copy. This aligned perfectly with my plan to visit all the libraries in Washington County so off I went.

   

     Which would have been fine but for the fact that I never go in a straight line to a destination. I like to turn even the most mundane errand run into a mini exploration adventure. Now be aware that there are good roads (Rts. 40 and 197) that will get you to Argyle. Those are what I'ld recommend. But there is also a maze of glorified cow paths (called town roads) that you can use. These I would also recommend. Except in mud season.

     Since I don't always follow my own advice, I'll share a few sights from my recent mud season trip on the backroads of Argyle. We'll start with a spot on Duer/East Road that's in the Town of Fort Edward, just shy of the Argyle line. Mike Huggins pointed out this location to me years ago and whenever I'm in the area I like to stop and contemplate the geologic processes at work here. The road runs several miles level on the clay bed of former Glacial Lake Albany. It's rather unremarkable. But if you stop a little to the east of the Anthony Road intersection you're at what may become a future crime scene. Believe it or not there could be an act of piracy at this very spot. 

On this map the Moses Kill is to the top and Slocum Creek to the bottom

The two watersheds are kissing each other at the road

     As in 'stream piracy'. That's when one stream headwater erodes until it intersects another stream and, if the gradients are right, captures the flow of that second stream. Quite the swashbuckling event except that, like most things geologic, it happens over very long periods of time. If you look closely here you will see wooded gullies opposing each other on both sides of the road. The one on the south side of the road leads to a branch of Slocum Creek while the north side gully drops down to the Moses Kill. If these two ravines were to connect and continue to deepen thru erosion there could eventually be a channel for the flow of the Moses Kill to be diverted into Slocum Creek. Stream captured! Of course, the two gullies are up against the formidable forces of the Town Highway Department at the moment. But in the near future, when we're no longer around, watch out for a blatant act of piracy right here.

A Google Earth image with Duer/East Road running horizontal

O'Brien Road and Anthony Road are to the left

The two gullies are where woods are on both sides of the road in image center

          

At the stream piracy site looking east to the Taconic front range hills

     I took a minute to admire the view of the Taconic front range of hills before heading east to a left on Lick Springs Road. For several miles this road parallels the thrust fault that brought the hills here. Eventually I turned right on Harper Road which, along with Coon Road, wiggles thru the hills towards Rt. 40. Stopped where a small stream flows toward the road on the north side and then abruptly plunges into a gorge on the south side. Scenic any time of year but now completely encased in ice and snow but for a couple of small windows of rushing water.

The photo doesn't do it justice but it's a long way down to the bottom of these falls

     Past a cluster of spiky spruces that made me wonder...a natural swamp or an abandoned plantation?...before crossing Rt. 40 and eastward to North Greenwich where I found myself on the afore mentioned rut-aholic Saunders Road. My reason for stopping here was to see the future site of the Ag Stewardship Associations Argyle Community Forest. I think it's around 80 acres of forested hill with a small stream on the east side of the road. Not open to the public yet but will be a fun place to explore in the future. Complements their Cambridge Community Forest but in a more remote area where the ATV and snowmobile are the preferred forms of recreation. It will be interesting to see how this shakes out...

The future Argyle Community Forest will be between

Saunders and McClay Roads on this topo map

 

Saunders Road

The ASA property is not yet open to the public

An old stone wall leads into the future Argyle Community Forest

 

     Having survived Saunders Road I moved on to a loop around Summit Lake. The pavilion and beach here was the scene of so many good times when I was a kid. Now, I can't even tell where the long gone structure was located. Did enjoy a conversation with a guy heading out onto the ice to do some fishing. There's no good public access so people just use places where the road hugs the shoreline. Maybe I'll try putting a canoe in later this spring. Do a little paddling tour for old times sake. 

Google Earth view of Summit Lake

Ice fishermen were accessing at the upper left corner

 
     Finally it was library time. Argyle's is located in a small house near the fire station. There is everything you'd expect: stacks, a reading table, computers and a children's room all downsized to fit the available space. They have a shelf of Argyle focused books and an impressive display of locally found arrowheads. Thru loans, town patrons have access to the larger resources of the Southern Adirondack Library System. It's a cozy place and a favorite after school hangout for kids.

  

Shelves of local history

The view from a reading table

SCREEN TIME...

     Was Drive worth the drive? All I knew about Ryan Gosling was that he had played Ken (Barbie's squeeze) in last summer's blockbuster. He's no 'Ken' in this movie. His character doesn't even have a name. He's an enigmatic loner with a soft side that intwines him with a woman, her son and eventually, the mob. The music, visuals and criminal violence reminded me of the TV show Miami Vice on steroids. There is definitely a pulsating 'drive' to the film but it's not for everyone.

Ryan Gosling ready to Drive

   

     Chalk it up to the power of association but while at the library I couldn't resist picking up a couple of other titles. Drive My Car is a Japanese film from 2021. There's actually more driving here than in Drive but it's at a very slow pace and serves as the stage for deep conversation as the characters struggle with how to go on living when you've been drained of the will to live. Not as morbid as it sounds, a long thoughtful story that is actually quite uplifting.

     A rich, white Jewish woman and a poor, uneducated Black man become best friends in the pre-civil rights South. Probably happened all the time, right? Well, it did happen at least once in 1989's Driving Miss Daisy which won the best picture Oscar that year. Morgan Freeman and Jessica Tandy give memorable performances in this feel good story. Maybe a little too saccharine but there are worst ways to spend a couple hours. 

Book Tour ... Vermont Edition

     Breakfast and books. Is there a better way to start the day? Especially when you can get both in scenic Manchester, Vermont.

     Books were meant to be the day's focus, but not on an empty stomach. That lead Gwenne and I to those steep stairs that take you Up for Breakfast. Not exactly handicapped accessible but everything else about this venerable eatery always pleases. Incredibly, we had the place to ourselves as we didn't get there till almost noon on a weekday. Be advised that it can be quite busy earlier in the day and especially on weekends. 

How bad do you want those pancakes?

The Up for Breakfast stairs.

Closing time

As quiet as it gets

     Fueled with French Toast, omelets and coffee, we were ready to move on to books. When in Manchester Center the Northshire Bookstore always comes to mind, and it is a fun place, but today my goal was to check out the Manchester Community Library. It's located on Cemetery Avenue off 7A as it heads north. Look for a relatively new building modeled after the architectural style of connected house, barn and sheds popular in snowy New England.

     Many will remember the Mark Skinner Library a mile or two south in Manchester Village. After the institution moved several years ago to the new building in Manchester Center, the former site was remodeled to become the Silver Fork Restaurant. For an interesting history of that building click here. 

The Silver Fork, inside and out.

From fine literature to fine dining. 

     The new library building is spacious and airy with lots of natural light. Sliding barn doors can be opened or closed according to need. The stacks and a pleasant reading room are to the right of the front desk while a children's section and craft room extend straight ahead. There's a cavernous gallery space in which the current exhibit, Jacqueline Evans' "More than a feeling", almost gets lost. This room probably functions best for programs and large gatherings. An elevator gives access to the basement where the local historical society and the Vermont Room's collection of older reference material share space with a meeting room and small reading nooks.

The Reading Room

The Gallery

     Community is an essential element of this library's mission. This isn't just a place to house books and such. Rather, it's a central gathering place and hub of activity with a long list of groups and programs that use the building. It compares very favorably with the Saratoga Springs Public Library and Crandall Library in Glens Falls even though Manchester serves a smaller (although quite affluent) population. It's one of those places that leave you feeling upbeat and hopeful and that's a feeling we could all use more of. 

     Man can not live by libraries alone. While in Manchester we decided to get a little outdoor exercise by walking the trails at Hildene. This is the 412 acre estate of Abraham Lincoln's son, Robert. The visit was especially meaningful to us because during a cross country trip last year we had stopped at Abraham's childhood home at Knob Creek in Kentucky. Quite a difference in the elder Lincoln's log cabin home and his son's elegant mansion. Talk about upward mobility...

The cabin at Knob Creek

 

The mansion at Hildene

     You could easily spend a day or more touring the grounds here. There are numerous trails that are pleasant to walk or cross country ski. Look one way and the Green Mountains form a long ridge, look the other way and Mt. Equinox towers above. Short on time, we chose the short stroll from the visitors center to the goat dairy. Was great to be around animals that I didn't have to milk!

Mt. Equinox from Hildene

Walking the plank at Hildene

It's a goat thing 

     We finished up our layer cake day of alternating activities at the Martha Canfield Memorial Free Library in Arlington, Vermont. This is a friendly, small town place that feels more like someones book filled home than a large public institution. What's really neat is that it shares a campus with the community's schools, making it easily accessible to students after class. That and the lovely views of the Taconic Mountains make for a memorable setting.

Arlington's Martha Canfield Library

     The Canfield name is well known in Arlington. Martha (or Mattie as she was known) started loaning books from a brick building (now the Arlington Community House) sometime around 1900. Eventually the Russell Collection of Vermontiana was also stored here. Martha left the house to her niece, the well known author and social activist, Dorothy Canfield Fisher and from those beginnings the library evolved to its present location on the road to East Arlington.

  

The Arlington Community House

     The library has a charming interior with a sunny reading room, a balcony above the foyer, open stacks and a children's room off to the side. Downstairs is a small gallery space where there's currently an exhibit on Vermont minerals and mining. The collection of Dr. George Russell, for many years the town physician, is here and open on Tuesdays or by appointment. The staff is so welcoming and the surroundings so inviting that you want to settle into a comfy chair with a good book and just let the hours drift away.

 

Native American artifacts collected from the Battenkill Valley

Displays from the current minerals and mining exhibit

 

The Martha Canfield Library

       Finally, the hours did drift away. Time to head for home and chores. Time to chase the setting sun thru the mountain gap that the Battenkill had carved for us. I'm not claiming to have invented 'library tourism' but I certainly can recommend it. We'll close with a poem by Emily Dickinson: