Wednesday, July 10, 2024

More Q's than A's

     It's not shaped like a question mark. Looks more like the ramparts of a medieval fortress. Something built to withstand barbarian invasions. So why does visiting the Mount Hope furnace always leave me pondering so many unanswerables? 




     Let's start with a few things we do know. Mount Hope is an area in the northern part of the Town of Fort Ann,  Washington County. Mt. Hope Brook flows out of Lakes Pond and down to the South Bay of Lake Champlain. The pond and stream are at the foot of the steep, west facing slope of the Putnam Range which tops out at around 1840'.The Putnams are tilted blocks of crust along the eastern edge of the Adirondack uplift. The furnace, located east of Sly Pond Road and south of Hogtown Road, lies on land presently owned by Camp Little Notch.


In this Google Earth shot the Mt. Hope furnace would be about in the center of the image
Lake George on left and South Bay off top right
The water bodies at center bottom are Lake Nebo and Lakes Pond

 
On this topo map the furnace would be near the red printed '750'
Unlabeled Lakes Pond is center bottom







     Beyond those simple facts things get murky. Nobody seems to know exactly when the structure was built. Fred Tracy Stiles writing in From Then Till Now has a couple of chapters on Furnace Hollow and the stack suggesting that Philip Skene might have had it constructed prior to the Revolutionary War. How they lifted and fitted the huge stones to a height of over 40' is also a mystery. And where did the iron ore and flux limestone come from? It had to be nearby quarries because moving such heavy material would be quite difficult. Another uncertainty is the role water played in the smelting process. There is a beautiful stream at the furnace site but I'm not sure if this is Mt. Hope Brook or a smaller tributary.






  I'ld love to see someone with research skills shed light on Washington County's early iron industry. Back in the '80's Dr. Russell Taft gave talks about mines and quarries in the area but I don't know what became of his discoveries.

Dr. Russell Taft use to share his research into area mines and quarries
Clippings from '82 & '83 


     Beyond basic historical facts, the furnace raises questions about our relationship with place and the past. This stone behemoth is an industrial relic from bygone days and most people who visit feel a sense of wonder and sense that it should be preserved. Why is that and does it apply to other industrial relics? Should the deteriorating  Bio-Tech plant along the Battenkill be saved or razed? What about the GE facilities in Fort Edward and Hudson Falls? Will our descendants question why they were demolished? And then there is all the agricultural infrastructure, the barns and sheds, that are slowly settling back into the ground around the county. What's worth saving?

Factory buildings at Kanes Falls in Fort Ann
They are all gone now


Going, going...Gone?


     Who owns our historical and cultural legacy and who gets to enjoy the world's natural beauty? Private property is a fundamental of our economic and political systems. But so is the concept of 'the commons', of places and things that should belong to all of us and to future generations as well. Parks and public lands. One administration will set land aside and the next speed dials extraction industries to come and feast. Local government in Washington County tends toward the conservative with preservation a low priority. I know people who will tell you the government (i.e. all of us collectively) shouldn't own any land. That's just before they get in their big pick-up truck and drive away on a public highway. 
     You can see the public/private dichotomy playing out in the parts of the Towns of Fort Ann and Dresden that fall under the umbrella moniker 'east side of Lake George'. This area is in the Adirondack Park which is itself a mix of residential and commercial properties, of managed industrial timberlands and of 'forever wild' state owned forest preserve.







East side scenes: Inman Pond, Shelving Rock Falls, Lake George shoreline



     The 'east side' is a recreational mecca for hikers, climbers, mountain bikers and equestrians. There are miles of undeveloped Lake George shoreline freely available for all to enjoy. In the past the area has been the site of a number of Scout camps but social and economic changes have resulted in the sale of several recently. Crossett Pond was owned by the Scouts until 1995 when it was sold to a private party. It covers nearly a 1000 acres of forest surrounding a pristine 120+ acre lake. Last year it was put on the market for nearly $15 million and sold quickly for almost $10 million. One realtor called it "...the greatest piece of property in the southern Adirondacks..." Now, one wealthy person owns it and gets to enjoy it. 

Crossett Pond


     Camp Little Notch,  formerly owned by the girl scouts, is nearby. It once featured 2350 acres of forest, stream and mountainside. An 80 acre lake and the iron furnace are also part of the property. The Open Space Institute bought it in 2010 for $3.95 million. Subsequently 443 acres were sold to a non-profit to operate a girls summer camp and the remaining acreage went to a New Hampshire timber company. The Open Space Institute touts this as a great outcome saying "The ethos of the camp is to be a welcoming and affirming place for all." Not everyone concurs. All of the land is heavily posted with no public access and open to only a very small segment of the population. To visit the furnace, long a treasured local historical resource, you'll have to somehow get permission from somebody who lives somewhere far away.





     Washington is one of the few counties in New York without a state camping park. Both Crossett and Little Notch would have been ideal locations and fit perfectly into the popular uses of the area. They could have been open to all and enjoyed by many generations to come. Why that didn't happen is another of the questions that came to me as I gazed up at the furnace. I've never heard a good answer.




Wish you could be here: Little Notch views

Tuesday, April 30, 2024

Rathbun's and Rail Trails


Rathbuns


      I'm not sure what I enjoyed more, the swamps or the syrup. When we went to Rathbun's Maple Sugar House to meet friends for breakfast recently we were a little early (maybe because we drove and they rode bikes!). This gave us time to stroll the woods road in back of the restaurant while waiting for the others to show up. Glad we did because the path lead to three scenic wetlands and the tiny streams that drain them while roller coasting over several low ridges. Stone walls lined the way hinting at a time when these woods were sheep pastures. Now the 'livestock' are chipmunks, squirrels and beavers.



     This area of Washington County including parts of Granville, Whitehall and Hampton drains mostly into the Mettawee River with a low divide sending a few streams east into the Poultney watershed. Elevations range from just over a 100' along the river to Thorn Hill's 1163' summit. It's a hilly part of the low Taconics with a general north-south orientation of ridges and valleys but the topography is rather chaotic with many small ponds and swamps scattered amongst the higher ground. For wildlife it's an ideal mix of woodland and field, of upland and wetland.

Woods and waters make great wildlife habitat
(web image)


     I'm unaware of any public lands here so the best way to explore is by wandering the back roads that branch off Co. 12 and 21. You can drive, bike or find a place to park and walk. There are also some fishing access spots if you want to check out the Mettawee. Other points of interest include the East Whitehall Brick Church with adjoining carriage sheds and cemetery, views from Welch Road, Hatch Hill Cemetery and a lime kiln in the woods between Hatch Hill Road and Co. 12 (on private property). Also note that the 175 acre Horn property on Baker Road has been conserved by the Lake Champlain Land Trust but is not open to the public.

Ledge, forest and understory typical of this part of Washington County
(web image)

     After a great Rathbuns breakfast Gwenne, Zia and I took a short drive to Poultney, Vermont where we walked off the pancakes. The Slate Valley Trail's Poultney River Loop is an easy 3+ mile circuit around the village. It uses a section of the D&H rail trail that runs from Castleton, Vermont twenty miles south to West Rupert. The Poultney Loop branches off  the rail trail to follow the river in back of the former Green Mountain College campus. It's a level open path well suited to walking, running and gravel/mountain biking. 









Pics from a quiet, drizzily walk in Poultney

   
     Poultney took a tough blow when Green Mountain College closed in 2019. Raj Bkakta bought the property in 2020 and now he and his wife Dahnee are transforming the campus that will still have an educational focus. She has started a K thru 6th independent school and he is developing a program for those who want to enter the spirits industry. Also in town, the Poultney Pub has reopened after winter renovations and it appears that Hermit Hill Books is now operating as Laureate Fine Books. Up the street Stone Valley Arts at Fox Hill has a busy schedule of offerings, just one more reason Poultney is a great place to take a hike and stay for food, drink and culture.








LINKS...




Thursday, April 11, 2024

Get to the Points



  

Gwenne and Zia at Crown Point

  The eclipse was just the icing on the cake. Gwenne and I (along with thousands of others) saw the event from Crown Point. The featured attraction lasted maybe two minutes but we spent the better part of the day exploring the area. Two state park facilities sit side by side here. Crown Point State Historic Site is to the north and a state campground is adjacent to the south. There's also a seasonal visitors center and the graceful bridge that connects New York and Vermont. On the east side of the bridge is Chimney Point with its own historical sites and campgrounds.



Views of Crown Point on Eclipse Day

 

     The Crown Point State Historic Site contains the ruins of two colonial era forts: one French and one British. There are also fossils in the limestone outcrops and distinctive ecological communities that have developed due to carbonate rock and the climatic influence of the large lake. Because this is a migration route with varied habitat the site is also used for bird banding events. There are numerous paths and hiking trails thru out the park.




     The campground features 66 sites, a day use picnic area, boat launch, fishing pier and the towering Champlain Memorial Lighthouse. Both parks offer views of the bridge. With walkways on both sides you'll want to stroll across it for the views and the experience of ambling from one state to another.


Crown Point Campground site map 



The lighthouse and bridge

Bridge walkers (and sitters) on eclipse Monday


     Chimney Point on the Vermont side of the lake is a destination in itself. There is a state historic site here as well as the DAR Mansion and surrounding Vermont State Campground. Other points of interest include several wildlife management areas with a boat launch, a restaurant, RV parks and the Ass-Pirin Acres minature donkey farm (visit at your own risk...you may end up buying one of the lovable creatures!). A short drive away is the Dead Creek WMA, legendary among birders. For history buffs Mt. Independence and Fort Ticonderoga are nearby. 


Chimney Point and  Champlain Bridge
web image




Eclipsers at Chimney Point on Monday


DAR Campground site map


     You could spend several lifetimes exploring Lake Champlain and surrounding shores. It's that big and why it's sometimes called the 6th Great Lake. The Empire State Trail follows the western shore and there are infinite biking, hiking and paddling options thru out its watershed. Even better, it's easily accessible from Washington County via scenic, short drives. Time to go, no eclipse needed.

French fort ruins

Lighthouse and fishing pier from the bridge

     * The Lake Champlain canon of books could fill a small library. Here are just a few that will help you enjoy visits:

     - Lake Champlain: A Natural History by Mike Winslow is a good introduction to the lake and its watershed.

     - Wetland, Woodland, Wildland: A Guide to the Natural Communities of Vermont by Elizabeth H. Thompson and Eric R. Sorenson will take you deeper into the ecology along the lake shore (and elsewhere in Vermont).

     - Empires in the Mountains by Russell P. Bellico puts the various colonial ruins and battle sites into perspective.

     That's it for now but I have a sense that this is going to be my Lake Champlain summer, so probably more to follow. You've been warned...    


  And a few more eclipse day pics...


Some had elaborate gear


Holly and Tom absorbing the energy


Holly got this colorful shot



 Pine cone eclipse art at Crown Point


Wednesday, April 3, 2024

Upcoming

     Join the Battenkill Conservancy and Trout Unlimited for a Spring trash cleanup on Saturday, April 6th, 10 am at the Stateline rest area on Rt. 313 (between Cambridge and Arlington). Safety vests and snacks provided. Other cleanups planned for the canal and river at Hudson Crossing Park, Schuylerville on April 21 and May 5.


Ready for a good scrubbing?
Google Earth view of Stateline Park section of Rt. 313

     Southern Adirondack Audubon Society presents a program "Dam it! Beavers and why they are important" at Greenwich Free Library on Wednesday, April 24 at 7:00 pm.


Web image


     On Sunday, April 14 at 8:30 am Steve Mackey will lead an ADK bike trip from Canal Park in Fort Ann to Rathbuns for breakfast (pancakes and maple syrup!). 24 miles with hills (it's Washington County, duh). Call Steve at 518-793-6484 to join.




     The Salem April Fools Race must to be getting a little slower with age (just like me!). It has dropped back a week this year to Saturday, April 13 with races starting at 9 am. Some of the hills will still make a fool of you.


The 5K race coarse


     It's the fourth year for The Great North: Battenkill Valley bike rides. Various options leave from Cambridge on Saturday, May 4. Beer and apple pie after!




     Finally, it's not all fun and games. On Thursday, April 18 anytime from 5 to 8 pm you can learn more about Boralex's planned Fort Edward Solar Project. The open house event will be in the Durkeetown Church, Town of Fort Edward. Something like this involves a substantial change to Washington County's landscape and economy. This is a chance to ask questions and learn more.