Friday, August 2, 2024

Walk This Way

     Ready for a nice walk?

     It goes thru the scene of disastrous fires, past some ruins, between a couple of dumps, along a chain link fence topped with barbed wire. There's even a long uphill slog on the return. Real nice.

     Since I'm not in the business of tourism promotion I get to tell it like it is. But wait, this is way better than it first sounds. Actually, one of the most popular strolls in all of Washington County. It was once the favorite pastime of a highly celebrated poet.

     We'll start on Pearl Street in Hudson Falls. Should be ok to park in the American Legion's large lot. Be sure to take a moment to thank the veterans for their service and pause at the 9/11 memorial near the entrance, 'lest we forget'. From there head back towards downtown a short ways to admire the large yellow Victorian house set amid beautiful gardens. It's for sale as of this writing. This is 57 Pearl Street , the former home of William Bronk. He was a local boy who made good with his many volumes of poetry. In 1981 he won the National Book Award for Life Supports: New and Collected Poems He also ran the family business, Bronk Fuel and Lumber,  while being noted as a great cook and host and an indefatigable walker. 


The American Legion Post
in a former Kenyon Lumber building




William Bronk's former home at 57 Pearl Street in Hudson Falls


     In fact, he never drove and that was how I got to meet him. Many years ago, maybe in the '80's, I dropped in on a poetry discussion group at Crandall Library. As  closing time approached a tall, stern man whom the others clearly revered stated, "Drinks and further reading at my place". Then he looked at me and said, "I'll ride with you." I didn't have a clue who he was but felt a sense of honor and confusion at being chosen as his driver. We chatted on the short hop to Hudson Falls and then hung out with others in the big house at 57 Pearl Street.

     It wasn't till later that I learned more about Bill Bronk and surmised that he was hoping to find someone as passionate about words and ideas as he. Unfortunately, it wasn't me at that time and I never saw him again, but I'll always cherish my memory of driving (and disappointing) the great poet. Maybe if we'd went for a walk together there would have been a better connection.


William Bronk with unidentified friend in background

     I can imagine Bronk bounding off the porch of Big Yellow and striding out Pearl Street to a right on the feeder canal towpath. This was his favorite route and it will be ours as well. Across the road are the many buildings of Griffen Lumber with the landmark coal silos visible beyond. Definitely worth checking them out.


Bronk's former home with a great porch for reading and writing poetry





The coal silos


     The towpath here provides a pleasant shaded walk on hot summer days. The sound of running water as it rushes thru old Lock 12 makes it feel cool. Across the canal was where the sprawling Kenyon Lumber Company once stood. The American Legion now occupies one of its former buildings. In a game of musical sawmills, Griffen bought Kenyon in 1926 and moved equipment over Pearl Street to its location. A fire in 1932 destroyed a remaining Kenyon building and another of its mills was dismantled. Today what you see are a few foundation stones and the backyards of residential development.








Kenyon Lumber...then



...and now




     The towpath soon crosses Burgoyne Avenue and drops down past a parking area, picnic spot and the Five Combines locks. The capped Kingsbury landfill is on the left with its ugly fence, courtesy of liability lawyers. Off to the right, screened by trees, is its sibling the Fort Edward landfill. 





     As you walk downslope you are dropping off a sand and gravel delta built up by the ancestral Hudson River and entering the clay bottomed floor of glacial Lake Albany. Abundant water and cover make this a good spot for birding and botanizing. It is said that Bronk could identify every flower and bush along the path. The locks and towpath here provided inspiration for several of his poems.


Geologic map showing delta sands in dark brown and lake clays in light tan
Walking route follows blue canal diagonaling to T in yellow (recent alluvium)


     At the bottom of the hill the towpath levels out and crosses a bridge at a T intersection. This is where the poet liked to swim nude with his friends at 'Bronk Beach'. It was also a dark sky place for late night stargazing. The Feeder Canal empties into the old Champlain Canal here and that in turn joins Bond Creek  before flowing into the modern Barge Canal. What used to be just 'the towpath' is now the Empire State Trail. If you feel like walking a little further you can go to Canada, New York City or Buffalo from here. Otherwise it's a good place to turn around and retrace your steps back uphill.





BRONK REVISITED


At the Hudson Falls Library entrance 


     I'm not sure how much Bronk gets read anymore. His work isn't as easily accessible as say, Robert Frost's or Mary Oliver's. It can be rather dense, dark and challenging. In this Instagram/Facebook era of 5 second attention spans his poetry is not for everyone. You have to work to get it and then you might end up depressed for your effort. 


A biography  and book of collected poems



     If you are up to the task check out the Village Booksmith which may have some used copies of his poetry on their shelf. Across the street the Hudson Falls Library has a memorial to him out front and a small collection of his work inside (look in the far back corner). While in Hudson Falls you might also want to visit his grave in Union Cemetery where there is a plaque dedicated to his life and achievements. Finally, as I sometimes do, you can park in front of the the grand old manse at 57 Pearl Street and read the poems where they were written. 









Wednesday, July 10, 2024

More Q's than A's

     It's not shaped like a question mark. Looks more like the ramparts of a medieval fortress. Something built to withstand barbarian invasions. So why does visiting the Mount Hope furnace always leave me pondering so many unanswerables? 




     Let's start with a few things we do know. Mount Hope is an area in the northern part of the Town of Fort Ann,  Washington County. Mt. Hope Brook flows out of Lakes Pond and down to the South Bay of Lake Champlain. The pond and stream are at the foot of the steep, west facing slope of the Putnam Range which tops out at around 1840'.The Putnams are tilted blocks of crust along the eastern edge of the Adirondack uplift. The furnace, located east of Sly Pond Road and south of Hogtown Road, lies on land presently owned by Camp Little Notch.


In this Google Earth shot the Mt. Hope furnace would be about in the center of the image
Lake George on left and South Bay off top right
The water bodies at center bottom are Lake Nebo and Lakes Pond

 
On this topo map the furnace would be near the red printed '750'
Unlabeled Lakes Pond is center bottom







     Beyond those simple facts things get murky. Nobody seems to know exactly when the structure was built. Fred Tracy Stiles writing in From Then Till Now has a couple of chapters on Furnace Hollow and the stack suggesting that Philip Skene might have had it constructed prior to the Revolutionary War. How they lifted and fitted the huge stones to a height of over 40' is also a mystery. And where did the iron ore and flux limestone come from? It had to be nearby quarries because moving such heavy material would be quite difficult. Another uncertainty is the role water played in the smelting process. There is a beautiful stream at the furnace site but I'm not sure if this is Mt. Hope Brook or a smaller tributary.






  I'ld love to see someone with research skills shed light on Washington County's early iron industry. Back in the '80's Dr. Russell Taft gave talks about mines and quarries in the area but I don't know what became of his discoveries.

Dr. Russell Taft use to share his research into area mines and quarries
Clippings from '82 & '83 


     Beyond basic historical facts, the furnace raises questions about our relationship with place and the past. This stone behemoth is an industrial relic from bygone days and most people who visit feel a sense of wonder and sense that it should be preserved. Why is that and does it apply to other industrial relics? Should the deteriorating  Bio-Tech plant along the Battenkill be saved or razed? What about the GE facilities in Fort Edward and Hudson Falls? Will our descendants question why they were demolished? And then there is all the agricultural infrastructure, the barns and sheds, that are slowly settling back into the ground around the county. What's worth saving?

Factory buildings at Kanes Falls in Fort Ann
They are all gone now


Going, going...Gone?


     Who owns our historical and cultural legacy and who gets to enjoy the world's natural beauty? Private property is a fundamental of our economic and political systems. But so is the concept of 'the commons', of places and things that should belong to all of us and to future generations as well. Parks and public lands. One administration will set land aside and the next speed dials extraction industries to come and feast. Local government in Washington County tends toward the conservative with preservation a low priority. I know people who will tell you the government (i.e. all of us collectively) shouldn't own any land. That's just before they get in their big pick-up truck and drive away on a public highway. 
     You can see the public/private dichotomy playing out in the parts of the Towns of Fort Ann and Dresden that fall under the umbrella moniker 'east side of Lake George'. This area is in the Adirondack Park which is itself a mix of residential and commercial properties, of managed industrial timberlands and of 'forever wild' state owned forest preserve.







East side scenes: Inman Pond, Shelving Rock Falls, Lake George shoreline



     The 'east side' is a recreational mecca for hikers, climbers, mountain bikers and equestrians. There are miles of undeveloped Lake George shoreline freely available for all to enjoy. In the past the area has been the site of a number of Scout camps but social and economic changes have resulted in the sale of several recently. Crossett Pond was owned by the Scouts until 1995 when it was sold to a private party. It covers nearly a 1000 acres of forest surrounding a pristine 120+ acre lake. Last year it was put on the market for nearly $15 million and sold quickly for almost $10 million. One realtor called it "...the greatest piece of property in the southern Adirondacks..." Now, one wealthy person owns it and gets to enjoy it. 

Crossett Pond


     Camp Little Notch,  formerly owned by the girl scouts, is nearby. It once featured 2350 acres of forest, stream and mountainside. An 80 acre lake and the iron furnace are also part of the property. The Open Space Institute bought it in 2010 for $3.95 million. Subsequently 443 acres were sold to a non-profit to operate a girls summer camp and the remaining acreage went to a New Hampshire timber company. The Open Space Institute touts this as a great outcome saying "The ethos of the camp is to be a welcoming and affirming place for all." Not everyone concurs. All of the land is heavily posted with no public access and open to only a very small segment of the population. To visit the furnace, long a treasured local historical resource, you'll have to somehow get permission from somebody who lives somewhere far away.





     Washington is one of the few counties in New York without a state camping park. Both Crossett and Little Notch would have been ideal locations and fit perfectly into the popular uses of the area. They could have been open to all and enjoyed by many generations to come. Why that didn't happen is another of the questions that came to me as I gazed up at the furnace. I've never heard a good answer.




Wish you could be here: Little Notch views