Monday, April 12, 2021

'Springs' Time

     

          In spring I sprang into my stiffly sprung truck to go in search of seeping springs.





   Don't you love the English language? One word, so many meanings. Of Webster's multiple definitions I want to focus on this one:

          spring - a source of water issuing from the ground 


     That's why, after some research, I did indeed pull myself (I don't 'sprang' so well anymore) into my truck to visit several area springs. In this post I'ld like to share a little of what I found.

     There is something almost magical about seeing water suddenly appear from out of the ground. Dirt and rock ... they are dry, solid, hard. How can a liquid pour out of them? The scientific explanation is that we're seeing one small part of the water cycle. That's the process where the Sun's energy evaporates water, it rises, cools and condenses into clouds and then falls back to Earth as rain and snow. Most comes down in the oceans, some of the precipitation becomes trapped in glaciers and some flows off the land in streams and rivers. Then there is always a little bit that soaks below the surface to become groundwater.




     The truth is that rock and dirt aren't as 'dry, solid, hard' as they may seem. Two terms are important to understanding groundwater:

     porous - containing pores or void spaces

     permeable - capable of transmitting fluids

     Some rocks (sandstone in particular) are said to be porous and permeable because there are spaces between individual grains that can be filled with water. Other rocks (shale, limestone) are not porous but they do have enough cracks and fissures to allow water to infiltrate. They are permeable.

     Swamps, ponds and lakes are depressions below the level of groundwater. A spring is groundwater coming to the surface in a continuous flow. In hill country the water has often percolated down to an impermeable layer. When that layer crops out on a slope the water emerges as a spring. Springs can be further characterized as artesian (where the water comes up out of the ground under pressure), as thermal springs and geysers where the water encountered hot rock below the surface and as mineral springs with a noticeably high concentration of chemicals dissolved in the water.

     Mention mineral springs around here and one word comes to mind. Saratoga. It's a place that owes its existence to its waters.Native Americans valued their perceived health benefits and Europeans quickly became enamored of them as well. A resort grew out of their sought after medical promise. Around 1900 over 200 springs and wells were being tapped. This overdrew the aquifer threatening to kill the goose that laid the golden egg. Today there are only around twenty springs still active.


Native Americans carrying an ailing Sir William Johnson
to High Rock Spring


     The waters at Saratoga have attracted almost as many geologists as tourists. Despite many studies over the years the springs are surprisingly good at guarding their secrets. It is known that they emerge in an area of sedimentary rock that has seen displacement along northeast trending faults. On the west side of the fault limestones are at the surface and on the east side it's shale. The fault is vertical and the movement has been west up/east down. All the springs are along the fault or on the east side.


Limestone on the up thrown side of the Saratoga fault

High Rock Spring is in the pavilion with the fault scarp in the background

Not much happening on this early April day.
Maybe they wait till tourist season to turn it on.


     The water is cold (52 to 54 degrees F), highly carbonated (carbon dioxide gas), has a variety of minerals but with a particularly high sodium content (making them brine springs) while being low in sulfates. There is no clear consensus of where or how the water originated. One theory postulates a source as far away as the Catskills or even Pennsylvania, presumably being pushed by hydrostatic pressure thru cracked and faulted rock all the way to upstate New York. And despite the City of Saratoga's promotional literature, they are not the only game around.


This old map shows several area springs
with the arrows theorizing where the waters come from






These three photos are from Quaker Springs.
The pavilion with hand pump is relatively recent.
Nearby is a small cistern where mineral water seeps out.


     To the east and northeast, only a few miles away, are Quaker Springs and Gurn Springs. Both have mineral waters said to be similar to Saratoga's. Across the Hudson and into Washington County is the site of the Vita Spring in the Town of Fort Edward. At one time Vita was a really big deal. Today it seems to have disappeared almost without a trace. 

     I say 'almost' because if you stand at the intersection of Blackhouse Road and Co 46 you can see a line of willows leading off thru an overgrown field. They are said too mark the road that used to lead to the spring and bottling plant. In local antique shops you can still come across the occasional VITA labeled bottle in which the water was sold. The spring was discovered and developed in the 1860's when the site became a popular gathering place for picnics and parties. Chemically, the water was said to be similar to the Gurn Spring and those of Saratoga.


From an old geologic map


     The bedrock here is shale with a thick cover of clay. The carbonate rock that holds the mineral waters lies deeply buried beneath the shale and clay. It's curious that the water could find its way to the surface thru these relatively impervious layers. It is also interesting to note that several drilled wells in the general area also encountered mineral water. 

     The site of the Vita Spring is on private property and I don't know if it still flows or if there are any artifacts from its heyday to mark the spot. If you walk the lane leading from the DEC Grasslands parking lot down towards Dead Creek you will be close to what was once Washington County's homegrown version of the mineral water health craze of times gone by. 


Vita, where art thou? Do you see a spring? Neither do I.
Old maps would put it somewhere in the middle of this Google Earth image.
Co 46, Blackhouse Road and the DEC parking lot are upper left with Dead Creek lower right.


     Washington County's other well known source of mineral water is Argyle's Lick Spring. It flows from a hill side right on the Giddings Brook thrust fault that marks the westerly limits of the Taconic Range. It is said to have a disagreeable taste and odor from entrained hydrogen sulfide gas (think rotten eggs). The gas originates from the decomposition of pyrite (iron sulfide) in shale rock. Reportedly geologists have analyzed its water which has some similarities but also some differences with those of Saratoga.





     Perhaps what's most interesting about Lick Springs is its cultural history. The name is said to derive from herds of deer that came to 'lick' up the water. In the past it was a popular gathering spot for local people. Concerts, July 4th fireworks and large get-togethers lined the road with horse and buggies and filled the field that fronts the spring. While it is on private property there has always been a sense that a natural feature such as this belongs to all. An enlightened attitude that has enriched the community. For many years Harry McNeil cleaned and cared for the site. Now it's part of the Harold and Joyce Davis farm. They are gracious hosts who encouraged me to visit. Should you go, the courteous thing to do is ask before walking the short distance up to the Lick Spring.





     Local springs that issue from rock are usually small. Lick was just barely a trickle and I'm not sure if Vita flows at all. But there are other springs that have gravel and sand deposits as their source and these can be quite robust sources of water. Three of these were used as municipal supplies in the past and while there seems to be a move to drilled wells for public supply, the springs are still there spewing crystal clear water.

     The Village of Hudson Falls is built on a sand/gravel plain formed by the ancestral Hudson River where it flowed into post-glacial Lake Albany. This deposit is saturated with water and it seeps out in numerous springs where it is captured in a reservoir located between the Boulevard and River Streets.







     If you walk along the Feeder Canal Trail from the Rt. 4 ice cream stand back beyond the water tower the reservoir will be down a steep bank to your left. The springs emerge from the bank and feed the reservoir. In season the hillside is lush with vegetation and wildflowers, an oasis of nature created by the plentiful moisture. 




     A similar situation exists in the Town of Easton where springs and a reservoir used to supply the Village of Schuylerville. Here the delta deposits were built by the Battenkill River. The fairgrounds are on its level top and Rt. 29 climbs its steep foreset. The springs are located up an access lane from Co 113 (River Road). Water used to flow in a pipe beneath the Rt. 29 bridge to the village. This supply has been replaced in recent years by wells drilled on the Saratoga County side. The sands and gravels of the delta are highly permeable but embedded layers of clay act as barriers and the water flows out where these clay lenses intersect the hillside.


Feeling unwanted? These spring waters used to supply Schuylerville.
Now they flow under Co 113 and on to the Hudson.


     Another set of springs has provided the Village of Cambridge with its water supply for many years. They flow out of a similar aquifer...a large deposit of flat lying gravel. Called The Plains, it stands out as an unusually level area in otherwise hilly Washington County. Located to the north of Rt. 313 in the Town of Jackson, The Plains is outwash that was dropped by flowing water as the last glacier receded. A large block of ice lingered adjacent to The Plains and when that eventually melted it left a depression currently filled by Eldridge Swamp. The springs feed into the swamp and years ago a small reservoir was dug to collect their water.



The Plains



The reservoir


     The Gottry family managed the water source for many years but now a commercial outfit called American Waters owns it. As is the trend, wells were drilled and the open reservoir doesn't seem to be in use anymore. While there is no visible surface flow into it, a vigorous small stream flows out. All that water must come from springs that well up from the bottom of the reservoir. 




     There's a spot I like to visit just a short walk east from the water works. It's right at the wet edge of Eldridge Swamp, right where upland gives way to wetland. An old mossy log lies here, a demarcation between wet and dry. A spring bubbles up from beneath that log and I sometimes sit here for a bit listening to its soft gurgle. It's a place filled with the promise of new life, of birth. I watch the flow twist and wind its way downslope adding its waters to those of the swamp. From there it's on to the Battenkill, the Hudson, the Atlantic. To be here is to be present at the start of a great journey. Just a little hillside spring but it brims with freshness, hope and renewal.



    

Wednesday, March 24, 2021

Outside Intervention

      Back then my idea of exotic travel was going to Lake George for an afternoon. It was twenty miles away, after all. A big trip.

     Outdoor adventure? That was when a cow had hidden her newborn calf in the woods and I had to find it.

     My recreational gear consisted of a balloon-tired bike languishing in a back of the barn junk pile. It was a rust bucket that hadn't been ridden in 25 years.

     And my environmental credentials consisted of picking up beer bottles from our roadside fields before a tractor tire found them.

     Then a friend gave me a dog-earred copy of a magazine that had seen the rounds. Told me to check out the last page, something called 'Parting Shot'. It was a photo of a free standing tent air-born over the summit of Buck Mountain. Lake George lay stretched out below. Pretty funny although it had 'staged shot' written all over it. The magazine was called Outside and I read it cover to cover. Liked it so much I've been reading it ever since.  


Original photo credit: Ed Burke


     It was like fog lifting from a socked in landscape. The stories and photos opened my eyes to a world I hadn't seen before. There were people exploring every last hidden corner of the Earth. There were runners, cyclists and climbers going faster, further and higher. Environmental activists dealing with big problems, dealing with more than roadside trash. Places, experiences and issues chronicled in word and image.





     Slowly, subtly my life began to change. I started running again, the first miles since school track and cross country. Then I bought a bike, a light 12 speed that I put thousands of miles on and still ride to this day. Got a canoe and wrecked it over on White Creek. So I got another and then another. Did the 90 miler one year with an 80 pound Grumman! Climbed mountains, bought a bunch of Peterson field guides, joined citizen activists fighting polluters. Even traveled a bit. Nothing too far flung but I have hiked into the Grand Canyon, camped in Texas and gazed in awe at Yosemite's El Cap.




     I always liked to read books but now I was more apt to be turning the pages of Norman Maclean, Thomas McGuane or John McPhee than of a Fleming 'Bond' novel. Started keeping a journal, started taking photos. Words and images again. In those days it was hard (nigh impossible) to put the two together. Words were on paper, images on film. Combining the two? Not possible in any kind of practical way. But those issues of Outside that came every month convinced me that marrying prose and pictures was the best way to capture experience, to share ideas. I didn't know it at the time but the impetus to blog had been seeded before the technology to do it had arrived. 
     These musings were prompted by the news that the magazine has recently been sold. Perhaps this is a good time to review a little history. Let's start in the 1970's, with two young men. Jann Wenner had launched Rolling Stone in 1967. It covered music, culture and politics. A few years later Wenner wanted to create an outdoor offering and assigned three of his staffers to come up with something. Tim Cahill, Michael Rogers and Harriet Fier got to work and 1977 saw Outside's first issue. There was almost a last issue a year later. The magazine stumbled and with the number of pages and number of issues cut it looked to be a very short run.




     While Outside was enduring a difficult birth, another publication covering some of the same turf had developed a small readership. Mariah was the creation of Larry Burke, a disillusioned young IBM exec who dropped out of the corporate world to travel the real world for several years. Coming back to Chicago and his family's business he started his shoe-string magazine in 1976. It's mission was to celebrate wilderness and the thrill of adventure.


      Legend has it that in 1978 Wenner knew he had to do something about his faltering magazine so he approached Burke about buying Mariah with the intent of using it to rejuvenate Outside. Instead, Burke, perhaps the better businessman, ended up buying Outside from Wenner and combining the two. There was a confused year when they were published under a combined title with an uneasy marriage of concept and content, but eventually Burke and managing editor John Rasmus got their act together. Mariah was dropped from the title and it's been Outside ever since.

A young and adventurous Larry Burke


     The '70's were a culturally fertile decade. That's when Saturday Night Live and National Public Radio both got their start. There was lots of new music and something of a Hollywood golden age with such classics as The Godfather, Star Wars, Apocalypse Now and Taxi Driver. Athletes were exploring new territory as well. The first Hawaii Ironman Triathlon was in 1978. I remember Outside's coverage of the brutal battles between Dave Scott and Mark Allen on the searing Kona lava fields. Two of the fittest people who ever lived, they would go head to head for eight, nine hours pushing their bodies beyond what seemed humanly possible. And their duels seemed like fun and games compared to Julie Moss's 1982 performance. She started the race looking like a fashion model but some 11 hours later could have been mistaken for a concentration camp survivor. Befouled and nearly broken, she was unable to stand but kept stumbling and crawling thru the darkness towards the finish line and victory only to be passed in the last few yards. It was a portrait of grit and determination that once seen couldn't be forgotten.

Julie Moss - almost finished
Web image

        Triathlon and Outside came of age together and by the mid '80's the magazine was profitable and winning awards for excellence. Ed Abbey, Barry Lopez and Peter Matthiessen wrote for it. David Quammen (Natural Acts) and Mark Jenkins (The Hard Way) were popular columnists. Donald Katz's 'The King of the Ferret Leggers' became something of a cult classic and E. Jean Carroll's tale of an  all-female rafting trip down the Grand Canyon ('Women Who Run with No Clothes On') was a rollicking take on Clarissa Pinkola Estes' Women Who Run with the Wolves. Jon Krakauer's wrenching account of the 1996 tragedy on Mt. Everest (eight climbers died in a storm) first appeared in the magazine before becoming the bestselling book Into Thin Air
. Maybe not quite up to New Yorker standards but every issue had something literate, insightful and entertaining (although I never quite understood their obsession with expensive watches). 


Happy Anniversary - self congratulatory issues come along every few years

 
TAKE IT OUTSIDE...

    Decades went by, anniversary issues came and went and technology changed. A new generation of readers weren't necessarily readers at all, but simply consumers of what was on their screens. Outside adapted with an early and vigorous digital presence: website, Instagram, youtube channel and podcasts. They expanded into travel services and even a TV channel. And perhaps in the process the magazine suffered. It grew thinner and less frequent and in an echo of its beginnings, that portended a sale.

Outside Online screen shot

     The challenges faced by print media are well known. At Outside there had been hints of trouble for sometime. In online forums current and former employees complained of low pay and few benefits. They said the magazine didn't treat its freelance writers and photographers well, consequently losing the best talent. There were grumblings about 'the top of the masthead'. And diversity was all but absent. It was all about young, affluent white men. Recently there were 'special' issues meant to change this image but to some they seemed token, too little too late.




     It was like the number-crunching business devil whispering in Larry Burke's ear wouldn't let the editorial angel get a word in. He is in his late seventies and reportedly wants to work on his memoir, wants to spend time at his New Mexico ranch. It seems like he had become more interested in milking his cash cow than feeding her. Maybe it was time for a change. Maybe the sale is a good thing.
     Pocket Outdoor Media bought the magazine in February and quickly changed their company name to Outside. They own a slew of other active/outdoor publications including Climbing, Rock and Ice, SKI, and Velo News. They seem excited by and committed to Outside and have pledged to keep all the current employees.
     Magazines still have a role in recording events and accomplishments, in sharing experiences and ideas. They are where we can be challenged by those who have seen, done and thought about things beyond what most of us can imagine. Here's hoping a new generation can draw inspiration from Outside, much as I have for so many years. 
 

Outside's all-time most popular cover - I guess its readers like their rock