But I do drink a little wine on occasion. That's because Gwenne likes a glass now and then. Since she does the shopping and sets the table, who am I to argue? In truth, what I really like about wines are the names and labels. They're such a hoot. Take Ménage à Trois. It's a blend of three varieties, thus the suggestive name. Epicures would probably consider it to be the Utica Club of wines but it works for those of us with less refined tastes. Does it deliver on the labels promise to "...caress you with every sip..." and to be "...the lavish, luxurious experience you've been craving..."?
Well...
Lest you be mislead, this post is not about cheap alcohol or 'alternative' relationships. Rather, it covers three paddle spots on the Battenkill River that can be done separately or together. Long time readers of this blog (if there are any) will recall that I have been profiling the flatwater pools of the lower river starting from its confluence with the Hudson and working back upstream. If my math serves me, there are seven you can do without a shuttle ... launching your boat, enjoying a cruise and then taking out where you put in. Now it's time to wrap this project with a look at the last three sections. All are accessed from the Village of Greenwich in close proximity to each other and I'm guessing none will appeal to the connoisseur. Ménage à Trois...
!!!
Before any boats hit the water there's something that needs to be said. Two of these pools are dangerous. There should be skull and crossbones signs at the put in. It's not because of raging whitewater. There is none. Rather the menace lies in unmarked downstream dams. The dams are what create the flatwater paddling but when approached from above they are all but invisible and the unwary could easily be swept over them with disastrous results. There should be some kind of warning signage on the river but there isn't. I'll point out these hazards in map and description but if you're not comfortable with the risk it may be best to avoid paddling here.
Three dams back up three pools in this Google Earth image of the Battenkill
sketching a big S around the Village of Greenwich
The first pool has two access points. The best is off Elbow Street near a wastewater pump station. Here the Village of Greenwich has opened up a short path down to the water with room to park a couple of cars nearby. It's convenient and I'm grateful to the Village.
This grassy path leads to the river
The first thing you'll notice are the piers that used to carry the Greenwich and Johnsonville railroad tracks across the stream.
The trestle here was originally built in 1870 and eventually dismantled in 1932. David Nestle's Rails along the Battenkill is a good source for historical information and old photos. Directly across the river is where Fly Creek joins the Battenkill. It's just a trickle at the end of a dry summer but notice the gravel bar island at its mouth, apparently built up from sediments carried during time of flood.
The alternate access point is here at the confluence with Fly Creek on the south side of the river. It's reached by a short, steep lane off Eddy Street (aka Rt. 372, the road to Cambridge). To get there drive thru Greenwich, over the Battenkill and under the RR overpass. As you head up a slight grade look for a fire hydrant on the right and turn down past a small hydro plant to a grassy parking area with a path to the water below a dam and rock outcrops. This area has a long history of industrial activity fueled by water power. Notice the melted slag on the bank where you put in. I've heard of this spot being called the glassworks. Anybody know what went on here?
Heading downriver the shores are mostly wooded and seemingly undeveloped even though there is a former mill site on the right bank. Look for sycamore, cottonwood and box elder - typical stream-side trees. There's also a profusion of wildflowers along the bank and plenty of kingfishers, blue and green herons and various waterfowl to keep you company. I've a hunch that the fishing for warm water species would be good also.
On a recent summer evening I had this stretch all to myself. But, as I went downriver I was somewhat blinded by the setting sun and the only warning of my approach to the top of the dam was the sound of falling water. I turned around well above it and if you do the same you can enjoy a short, scenic outing here.
To visit the next pool upstream look for a 'Mill Hollow' access sign just before where the highway bridge crosses the river. Park under the RR trestle and slither your boat down a steep bank to the water. Here it's critical to go left (upstream) because a short ways downriver leads to the top of a dam that's nearly impossible to see from your canoe. Again, no signage or buoys to alert you.
Paddling upriver you quickly pass beneath the road bridge and shortly come to several islands with narrow channels between them. Although you are just behind the Villages main street it feels quite wild here and you'll see lots of birds. You can get out and explore ledges below a 3rd dam and see foundations and stonework of long gone industry. As you head back towards the take-out keep to the right and don't go beyond the RR trestle to be on the safe side.
The final and most appealing pool is located on Rock Street. This is reached by turning left immediately after crossing the river bridge and before going under the RR overpass. Follow Rock Street a short ways and after a sharp right turn look for a small riverside park on the left. It's an attractive spot with an easy launch. Again, be sure to head upstream, to your right because there's a dam just below the put-in.
From the park there are several miles of pleasant paddling. Rt. 29 parallels the river and you will see and hear traffic but it's not that distracting. Eagles and ospreys are seen here and rock outcrops provide interest. The water can be shallow in places...you may have to search for a channel deep enough for passage. Past the Greenwich Town Beach on the left you begin to notice more of a current. Water level and ambition will determine how far upstream you go. For those who want to do the entire section it may be a better idea to put-in at H&V's Center Falls access point and come downriver, but remember that you'll need to do a car shuttle with that option. However you approach it, this is an enjoyable part of the river. Just remember to stay left and look for the park as you come downstream.
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From Center Falls well into Vermont the Battenkill is a lovely free flowing river renowned for its clarity and its scenery. But it can also be crowded at times with conflict between fishing, tubing and boating and the water level can be too low or too high for easy paddling. You'll want a plastic boat (because of rocks) and you'll need to shuttle which makes one person trips impractical. For all these reasons and more I'm grateful for the flatwater pools of the lower 'Kill and return to them again and again. They are nothing to 'whine' about.
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You could put your boat in at Manchester, Vermont and paddle all the way to the Hudson in one push. I'm sure people have done it. In fact, Walter Burmeister describes such a trip in Appalachian Waters 2: The Hudson River and Its Tributaries. I'ld like to hear from anyone else who has completed that adventure. Water levels and getting around some of the lower dams, particularly at Dionondahowa, would be the challenges. Till you're ready for that epic here are links to my day trip posts of the lower pools.
* Confluence of Battenkill and Hudson.
* Pulp Mill pool.
* Below Dionondahowa.
* Above Middle Falls.
On the river above Middle Falls.
A FINAL THOUGHT...
The world is a crowded place and it's only going to get more so. That behooves us to make the most of finite resources. There are a lot of demands placed on the Battenkill. Various and sometimes at odds recreational pursuits as well as the need for irrigation, power generation and industrial use. I believe all can be accommodated with careful planning and consideration for others. The H&V mills are a good example. They produce necessary products, provide employment and facilitate other uses of the river.
Ready for a wild ride? This is all you see just before going over a dam.
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